Cosmetic ingredients, formulations and packaging were once again the draw as MakeUp in Paris 2015 broke previous records for the sixth straight year since its launch in 2010.

More than 3,200 visitors attended last month’s show at the Carrousel de Louvre on June 18-19, to view the latest products and engage with 126 industry suppliers.

A long line of attendees upped the anticipation as they stood in the marble lined halls waiting to rush in at the start of the cosmetic-centric show.

Exhibitors expressed delight with the crowd. Many noted that while they held a perception that MakeUp in Paris was primarily a European show, they were surprised and pleased at the number of Americans and other global attendees. In fact, figures show that foreign visitors reached nearly a third, 28%, of the total.

Perhaps this is because the “MakeUp in” shows have a universal following as they are now held in cities on four continents (Seoul, New York, Sao Paulo and Paris), and each has its own flair and focus.

The trend at MakeUp in Paris this year was for bold and colorful products. “Whereas MakeUp in Seoul was very focused on innovation and technology, Paris is about bright colors and creativity,” explains show manager and co-founder Sandra Maguarian.

Following the success of MakeUp in Korea, last held in April 2015—and with that country being a focal point now of color cosmetics formula and packaging innovation—it was not surprising to see a large number of Korean suppliers showing their solutions at the Paris venue.

Overall, exhibitors represented 16 countries. While many have been with the show since its inception, 29 first-time participants brought new perspectives to the dedicated makeup sector.

Walking through the aisles, it was at once obvious that a successful cosmetics product is the result of just the right combination of ingredients, formulation, applicator and other packaging. And with this in mind, brands were especially looking at suppliers that offer “one-stop shopping” in the way of providing turnkey services.

In fact, full-service is one of the main tenets of the “MakeUp in” events. “Even the biggest brands are more and more opting for full service,” says show co-founder Jean-Yves Bourgeois. “It’s only logical, when you consider you must be in a ‘time to market’ spirit to launch [quickly] and under the best conditions of efficiency and quality, a complete product offering a complete service. Formulas are becoming increasingly complex, not to say fragile. The product can only be conceived in its entirety.”

First Impressions

While the spotlight at this year’s edition of MakeUp in Paris may have been on color, there was no lack of innovation and technology.

At the top of the list was the cushion compact, which has taken the foundation category by storm, and appears to have revolutionized the cosmetics industry—at least for the time-being.

Many exhibitors touted this type of compact, though several voiced concern over violating AmorePacific’s patent. A number of suppliers had cautiously reinvented the concept by adding additional components, various closures and even by filling the puffs, themselves, with the formulation. Some suppliers spoke of the existing cushion compact as old news, and offered options that they said “go beyond the cushion.”

Regardless of the exact form, compacts, along with many of the other cosmetic packages offered, embraced the beauty consumer’s demand for portability and ease—a recurring theme at the show and in the marketplace. Double-duty dispensers and tools were also abundant due to their multitasking and space-saving benefits.

When it came to formulations, the common denominator was moisturizing for everything from skin to lip to eye. Long-lasting was a key descriptor meant for consumers who don’t want to have to reapply makeup throughout the day. Transformative and textural products were also popular with changes occurring upon application, such as gel to oil and liquid to powder. Playful, spongy jelly textures had also bounced onto the scene in a big way.

Similar to nail art, the trend toward decorative details in cosmetics is expanding to highlight eyes, and new tools and techniques are being developed to expand the pace.

It was also evident that a number of companies had been hard at work expanding their lines, or adding products to target additional categories—and in some cases, even developing their own cosmetics brands which they were marketing around the world.

Compacts and More

HCT Group is known for its full service solutions and innovative packaging, and had a large presence at MakeUp in Paris, featuring everything from an airtight cushion compact with an applicator slimstick—which can be used with concealer, lip or eye products—to droppers, lightweight formulations and more.

Rebecca Goswell, global creative/art director HCT Group, also explained BE, HCT Group’s first own-label colorful makeup artist brand currently featured at A.S. Watson Stores. Described as a new brand “for empowering everyone,” it features Italian formulas. HCT also owns the rights to cosmetics brand Lola outside of Spain, and the brand is expanding throughout Europe.

Applicators are also a key interest of HCT Group, which has moved into airless with a ceramic tip. They were also seeing a lot of interest in droppers because they work well with formulas that are now sheer, lighter. In development is an auto dropper that fills the pipette when the consumer closes the bottle, so it’s ready for use upon opening.

When it comes to formulas, HCT Group is seeing two distinct trends: lightweight, buildable, flexible formulas and products that are vibrant and “painterly,” according to Goswell.

At CTK, Christine Ansari, vice president key accounts and development, was emphasizing items with portability—to meet consumers’ on-the go requirements. A travel mesh compact held loose powder and is airtight to preserve the product. A mesh jar with an interesting delivery system offers a control factor with a spinning gasket on the inside. Ansari explained that with this feature, compacts will “move beyond the cushion in 2017.”

Ansari also presented a portable liquid bottom-fill compact that she says is easy to fill (due to a spring system with liquid inside) as the “next big trend.” She said it’s not an airless system so it’s simpler, easy to pump as there’s no need for a piston—no complexity—and it can have a slimmer silhouette.

Unipack Korea presented what CEO Brian Chung called a next-generation cushion compact with mesh—and which featured a jelly-type formulation, resulting in a Jelly Cushion Compact. The compact with a piston enables the user to turn the compact, and the foundation comes up through the holes. Chung also showed Beauty Packaging a “dial palette” for eyeshadow, lip and foundation—all face makeup and a mirror—for a complete travel kit. Auto lifting palettes, in which brushes and applicators pop out of the compact when you open the lid, were playful and functional.

Cushion compacts took a twist at Easy Powder, where the foundation is contained in the puff itself. Joon Hyung Lim explained that they had changed the design on their sponge-like cushion compact—in which the liquid foundation is contained inside the sponge itself—adding a ring cover for stability in application. Going a step further in cosmetic applicators, the puff is made of antibacterial silver velvet. Each puff contains enough foundation to last for a couple of weeks.

Purple Patch, a full-service Korean company designs packaging—but does not manufacture. They have produced both square and round designs for compacts that can be used for sunblocks, powder and jelly foundations. They also displayed what they say is the world’s slimmest airtight, air cushion compact—only 19.7mm thick.

The “now finalized” Push Puffy was featured at Libo, where Janice Hsu, vice president of sales, explained that the compact alternative can be filled with either liquid or powder; just push up at the bottom to apply. It comes in three sizes. Hsu said Libo will be launching an airtight cushion compact with a mirror on the top later this summer.

Apply Here

Products at Topline were exhibited under glass cloches for a premium effect. Brushes were in the spotlight, with displays featuring a kabuki brush that can be used for fluid or powder because of synthetic fibers; The Basics for Complexion collection with two contouring double-ended brushes with synthetic fibers on one end and natural fibers on the other; a blusher; and a foundation brush with a precise cut for applying next to eyes, etc. In addition, a shaped kabuki featured a triangular shaped ferrule. Topline also featured its Duo for Nocibé, a contouring foundation item that features both lightening and correcting properties.

It was the first year at MakeUp in Paris for Taiki USA. Jim Perry president/CEO, was emphasizing the tailoring of the application of the product, which he described as “the second moment of truth” for the consumer. He explained how application techniques are tied to various fibers. For example, Taiki’s duo sponge, with which .5 mm of celbian material creates a barrier layer so a BB or CC cream sits only on the top for a better application. The smaller amount also cuts costs as a full celbian sponge would be about $1 apiece. Perry says they are producing lots of celbian sponges for airtight cushion compacts. Also on display was a range of TPE flexors for flexible applicators and more control, as well as applicators with TPE or polyurethane tips.

Top-of-mind at Taiki was hygiene, as Perry noted, “The most common applicator is the finger. Thus, one option offered even has a silicon applicator in the shape of a finger. Perry emphasized: “It’s important for brands to incorporate and stress the need for applicators—especially applicators with antimicrobial properties.”

Anti-bacterial properties were also a selling point at Cosmogen, such as with a makeup brush set with charcoal fiber. Various applicators, such as a jumbo twist, replace fingers for better effects and less germs. Beauty sponges—in three different shapes for makeup—can get to hard-to-reach spaces for easy application.

An eyebrow kit with a new formulation from Alkos Group, with a tweezer, a brush and a design tool drew interest as did the double tip restructuring brush exclusively developed by Cosmogen for Lancôme for use in the brand’s waterproof creamy gel for eyebrows.

On one side, the pen-shaped tip draws the end of the eyebrow with accuracy and fills gaps. When used flat, it perfectly shadows eyebrows thanks to its tapered bristles. Made for comfort and precision, its symmetrical shape makes it easy to use regardless of which hand. On the other side, the spiral brush lifts the eyebrows and combs them before applying the gel. Then it blends it for a 100% natural look.

Cosmogen had taken the cushion concept to jars, from foundation to blush to eyes. A “lot less expensive than an air cushion compact,” according to Mylene Meunier, the products can be used with a brush or sponge.

Virospack revealed that they will soon be selling a line of molded glass bottles with glass pipette droppers. A new design, a hybrid between a classic pump and a pushbutton pump, features a colorful cap that forms part of the decoration. A tube with a rounded bottom conveys a luxe serum. Virospack is now able to Surlyn overcoat glass for truly special projects.

Foundations of the Show

Formulations were the order of the day at Kolmar Korea. Moisturizing for everything—even in color cosmetics—was the overriding message. And transformation of formulas was the trend with products going from gel to oil; liquid to powder—creating products with different textures and making products feel different after application.

Texture and formulations were also the focus at cosmetics contract manufacturer Cosmax. From moist and silky finishes to baked powder products to jelly bouncy foundations, Cosmax had it all, and it was all about texture. The Korean company had just launched a jelly eye shadow and foundation for Lancôme.

What are the benefits of jelly over pressed powder? According to Cosmax, moisturizing, coverage and long-lasting. The company started with jelly foundation then evolved the technology to other cosmetics, such as eye products. Attendees had fun poking at the spongy domes.

Cosmetic Group USA is primarily a color house, specializing in creating palettes, but Judy Zagarelli, president, spoke about how integral the packaging and the formulation are—how they go hand in hand. “Packaging is so important to the consumer, to the end product, to the cost, to everything,” she said.

Zagarelli said she likes things to be simple and practical—and they often “come out of things that annoy me.” Many products were designed to be good for on-the go, such as a cleanser—a simple no spill gel makeup remover that works like a magic eraser.

Color was the focus at Gotha, which highlighted four beautiful “affordable luxury” romantic and feminine micro collections featuring four muses and a variety of trends to celebrate their 10th anniversary. Catering to all and to all ideals of beauty, products were designed to illuminate skin. Nude, lust, long wear and multifunctional, and radiance were all themes.

Color Cosmetics Packaging

Quadpack/Technotraf has worked at making wood look feminine, and their resulting compacts proved their success. Two shapes—square and round—are compatible with standard pans. The square has rounded sides, while the round has straight sides. Ideal for on the go, they fit easily in a pocket for quick touch-ups—and the smooth finish feels good to the touch. The round compact was decorated with grooved engravings. A soft square had dots resembling a pegboard. The compacts can be produced in many colors, including pastels, which work well with making the deco stand out.

Quadpack is also now launching airtight jumbo sticks for lip and eye products, in plastic, metal and airtight versions—ideal for long-lasting formulas.

Known for its airless packaging for skin care and foundation, Lumson has increased its range and designed and introduced makeup packaging solutions in plastic and glass. Available in four sizes, Luxea is a new compact design with an ultra-flat profile, an easy-to-open groove and an invisible magnetic closure system. Lip Glass Rouge is a new package that fuses two bottles, both with a slanted profile, and a see-through window.

At Samhwa, overseas marketing manager Ryan Jo says they are extending their lines into color cosmetics, lipsticks and lipgloss—gaining popularity at less than $1 apiece. Most notable were refillable products where the outer case is re-used. A lipstick tube featured a see-through design so you can view the product color from the outside. He also told Beauty Packaging that “many products are now in development for airtight compacts.”

South Korean company HwaSung, known for its eyebrow pencils, had a number of other offerings. Yumi Kim showed a non-retractable moisturizing glossy slim lipstick with a very soft texture. It is also available in Jumbo and Slim sizes. A cheekstick/blusher offers a powdery texture in a stick. A liquid eyeliner has a dry effect but is textural.

Tattoo eyebrows—a brow tattoo that works overnight—drew attention at Bonne Company, Ltd, Korea, where additional eye products included a sweat- and waterproof brow pencil with a soft gel-like texture that doesn’t wear off. The company manufactures and produces in Korea and also owns five brands sold throughout Asia, in Sephora U.S. and Canada. They offer services from formulation to turnkey, and have their own patent for a cushion compact content contained in a sponge. Double-duty products with all kinds of tips and formulations were also receiving attention. Also available:  flexible pouches that can be used for foundation, personal care or sleep masks.

Based in Thailand, S&J International Enterprises’ water-based cooling stick blushers had made it onto the Innovation Tree (see sidebar). The uniquely textured products can be used as blushers, or to contour. A bouncy eye shadow featured an oil-based formula with an interesting texture for multiple uses. Many products were also transformative, adapting to the PH in the skin—such as going on clear, then, once rubbed in, matching the color of the skin.

Double-ended pencils were in top form at Faber-Castell Cosmetics as part of their 2015 Summer Novelties: Smart Solutions for frustration-free makeup. The pencils included explanations and directions right on the stick. For instance, Iconic Lips provided the “perfect couple for statement lips” via its double-ended color-coordinated, shea-infused liner and lipstick.

Arcade Beauty, with its various holdings, bridged luxe color cosmetics with an array of innovative sampling solutions. Axilone specializes in lipsticks and caps, and choices were in abundance at the show. One-handed lipsticks had an especially interesting gesture. Turn with one hand and the top opens to reveal the bullet—so the user can drive and talk at the same time. One of the many lipstick samples from Arcade Beauty featured lipstick-on-a-stick lipstick samples, which are hygienic for one use. Now that Arcade Beauty has incorporated Bioplan, they can create and produce all beauty products from foundation to lip color.

Sampling/ Accessories

Livcer’s sampling promotions included a new pack with an extra thin design. As such, it can be printed on a press with as many colors as you want. You can then peel off a clear plastic label and test the product beneath.

Wolfram Leistner showed Beauty Packaging how Eisen is expanding their line of double and triple sharpeners. Instead of flat and domed covers, they are now available with a different shape dome that covers only the opening, and which leaves the sides free to print a logo on the sharpener itself. He said this can also be a financial advantage—as there’s less printing on the cover, or the two areas can be integrated.

Designs on Mascara

At Brivaplast, Cinzia Bessi revealed the Lace Mascara Collection, which combines the look of fine lace with flocking, and is topped off with a nice colored applicator tip. The lace design can also be done on the cap of a transparent lipstick case. Another lipgloss applicator gave the appearance of glass although it’s PCTA. A UV metallized collection in  gold, light gold, rose gold and silver added up to an extra premium appeal.

The Butterflies Collection features decoration done with digital transfer so there are no limitations on colors, and it can be executed on various materials—resulting in a complete collection with low minimum quantities.

Geka debuted its Marsala Summer Collection housed in packaging in the wine-red Pantone color of the Year for 2015. The smooth passion mascara brush is brand new consisting of a hard core with a softer sponge material around it for extra lash separation. The eyebrow applicator featured a molded brush. There’s also a lipgloss and an eyebrow gel. The extra-small units come in a transparent “fly-away” pouch from Geka’s accessories division.

Marketing manager Julia Kleiner told Beauty Packaging, “Demand for minis continues…especially for prestige brands to catch new customers; miniatures of real products are ideal for that.” Heavy walls in mascara are also a trend, she said—for a high quality look and feel. She also spoke about the expanding trend to eye art, similar to nail art.

Cartons

Homer Printing, based in Taiwan, displayed luxury cartons and setup boxes for brands including Tarte and Victoria’s Secret.

MakeUPigments

Once again this year, the participation of ingredients suppliers within the MakeUPigments area on the show floor, grew stronger. Participants included BASF, CODIF, Merck, Oleos, Sensient, Sollice Biotech and Univar.

The focus at BASF was on makeup pigments—specifically stemming around gold. According to BASF, gold is back on trend and they have developed synthetic gold mica pearl that can be included in everything from lipgloss and mascara to blush, body lotion, shampoo and nail polish. Here it was the color itself that was transitive—with products changing from pink to orange, orange to pink, gold to green and so forth, depending on the orientation of the light.

MakeUp at Work and Play

Once again, the playful nature of the event continued with makeup demonstrations held in a “boxing ring” and a do-it-yourself makeup design workshop where attendees had the chance to design their own packaging using components and decorative accessories to create items such as personalized compacts and tubes.

The various conferences and workshops organized this year addressed topics as diverse as connected beauty, emerging makeup trends and the particulars of makeup markets in Brazil and the United Kingdom. More than 1,200 participants attended the 15 conferences and roundtables, 8 workshops, 4 animations, and a vintage exhibition.

Low-Hanging Beauty ‘Fruit’

An ‘Innovation Tree’ greeted visitors to the aisles of MakeUp in Paris. Dangling from the branches by red ribbons were a number of products that had been juried prior to the show by a group of experts and deemed to be exceptional. Only 22 of 73 submitted products made the grade.

Special Exhibit

An exhibition of a collection of vintage makeup items, from whimsical lipstick packages to the ultimate in luxury, including solid gold cases, provided attendees with an appreciation for cosmetics as beautiful fashion accessories through the 19th and 20th centuries, and no doubt, inspired a number of future package developments.